Preserving Traditions

Reid sent this recent feature by Russ Parsons at L.A. Times on a California peach farmer who boasts a cult following among the foodies: "'Mas' Masumoto, a short, square 52-year-old with a quick smile and work-hardened hands, is probably the most famous fruit farmer in America."

"...Over the years, Masumoto has become a charismatic public speaker, carrying his message about family farms to groups as varied as the Culinary Institute of America and conventions of dance instructors and chamber music societies.

"The Masumotos live about 20 miles southeast of Fresno in a low-slung 1920s farmhouse surrounded by old grape vines with tight bunches of pale young fruit, and stone-fruit orchards laden with ripening nectarines and peaches. Masumoto is a third-generation farmer in the Central Valley. Indeed, his parents bought this place in 1964.

"While Mas may represent the face of the American farmer to his readers, in person he may be somewhat different than what you're expecting. The stereotype is for farmers to be grizzled and gruff, clad in grimy overalls. Masumoto is friendly and open. He comes to the door in shorts and a Hawaiian print shirt. But despite appearances, he is solidly in the statistical mainstream of California agriculture — working a mid-size family farm and struggling to find his niche in a very competitive commercial world."

Parsons recounts attending a "jam party," a homey, old-style jelly making hosted by Matsumoto in his farmhouse kitchen. It's a way for Matsumoto, who holds a Master's in Community Development, to involve his neighbors in a life quickly fading:

"I see this as sort of a throwback to the old days," Masumoto says. "It's keeping those rural ties. Oftentimes, people we invite have never made jam; it's very new to them. They'll ask me questions like: 'Why is this jar redder than that jar?' I'll tell them it's because the peaches that went into it had a little more color, and it's like that never occurred to them…. They expect everything to be standardized."

In similar spirit (and with plenty inspiration from Roseann), we'd like to share a few of our own traditions with you. I'll post first; Libby will share an applesauce recipe she and Steve enjoy from the fruits of their labor; and Reid? Maybe some poached guacamole from the neighborhood tree?

Mine comes from my hawking friend and mentor Tom Coulson, whose father picked wild blackberries for jelly every summer, nearly until his last, and passed on the lore to Tom. My most recent batch used fresh local stawberries, but the method is the same. There was no written recipe to pass along, so I'll post my trial-and-error version.

Blackberry or Strawberry Jelly

2.5 (or more) quarts berries

4 cups white sugar

½ lemon

1 package “Sure Gel” or other home canning fruit pectin

6 small jars with new sealing lids (the two-part lids)

1 cup filtered water (optional)

• Heat berries in large saucepan until soft (strawberries may benefit from adding one cup of water; blackberries don’t need it).
  
• Mash well on low heat until uniform in consistency.
  
• Place mash in colander and drain overnight. Filter juice through second, tighter mesh if necessary in the morning.
  
• Save juice in 3.5-cup amounts for this recipe. Juice keeps well when frozen almost indefinitely.
  
• Wash jars and lids, and place jars in bath of gently boiling water on stove. Let simmer while boiling juice. Place clean lids on paper towel and in a row to expedite sealing.
  
• Thaw juice in adequately sized saucepan (large enough to contain boil); when liquefied and warm, stir in pectin (no less than 8-10ths of 1 package) and one half of squeezed lemon juice. Bring to a boil.
  
• Reduce heat and add 4 cups sugar, one at a time and stirring constantly, leaving no lumps. Skim foam from top if desired.
  
• Boil until juice reaches 220 degrees, and then check regularly for gelling. This can take 2-8 minutes, depending on . . . who-knows-what?? You can use “spoon test,” (look for jelly sheeting off the spoon) and/or place a small amount of hot jelly on cold plate and pop in fridge – if mixture gells after 1-2 minutes in fridge, maybe it’s ready. Either way it’s a judgment call; I've never done it the same way twice and yet never burned the batch.
  
• When ready, take mixture off heat and quickly (but carefully) pull jars from hot water with tongs, leaving no water inside the jars. Pour mixture through funnel, leaving ½ inch at top of each jar. Place 1st part of lids on jars, then screw on second piece (use hand towel for better purchase) and set jars aside on counter away from sunlight. Resist temptation to jiggle jars until morning – this may prevent gelling.
  
• Place in fridge the next morning if you plan to eat jelly yourself. This will firm it further and keep it fresh after opening. Otherwise, place unopened jars in cool, dry, dark area if you are not using them. I have no idea how long they will last (probably forever), but I wouldn’t press your luck. Better to give them away and tell people to enjoy soon (and keep in fridge)!