Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Interesting Intersection

This one came in over the LSU weekly news wire.

For those who don't follow much in Louisiana, we just elected Bobby Jindal, our youngest-ever governor (younger than me, even---egads!), a conservative Rebublican, SAOVA endorsed, Baton Rouge native and son of Indian immigrants, among a long list of other interesting and commonly-cited labels.

This story, commenting on Jindal's win and its portents for our state, is by Rod Dreher (the Crunchy Con) and includes mention of LSU football, and this bit about Wendell Berry.

Weirdly familiar for a national piece, all of it.

"...As it happened, the night Mr. Jindal won I was having dinner in Henry County, Ky., with the farmer and agrarian poet Wendell Berry and a group of his conservative admirers. Earlier in the day, we'd heard Mr. Berry talk about how we Americans educate our children today for outgoing, not homecoming, and what a shame that is. We'd been talking about what kind of country we'd have if folks decided to stay home and learn to love their little place.

"That night, my father woke me up phoning from St. Francisville, La.. 'Jindal won tonight!' he said, tickled to death. So did the Tigers, but I don't think he even mentioned football.

"I haven't lived in Louisiana in a long time, but this election makes me proud and hopeful--two emotions unfamiliar to exiled Bayou Staters. And the promise of Mr. Jindal's leadership makes me wonder, for the first time since I packed up the U-Haul and drove off, if maybe I--and now, my children--have a future in Louisiana."


Dreher seems almost regretful for having left his home state, a mixed emotion he finds common among Louisiana ex-pats. I can understand it, although in my case Louisiana was the chosen destination, and the only home my children know.

If Dreher is an admirer of Wendell Berry, champion of much-abused and "backward" Kentucky, perhaps he should come home too.

View From the Hubble Telescope

I'll be the first to admit that I don't know a great deal about astronomy - but I found this picture of two galaxies merging taken from the Hubble Space Telescope just beautiful.

Dog Shoots Hunter

On opening day of pheasant season in Iowa. There's a reason they put a safety on it.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

This is the World's Oldest Living Animal


Or at least it was until recently. Scientists from Bangor University in Wales dredged up this Arctica islandica clam off the north coast of Iceland. After sectioning the shell and counting annual growth rings under a microscope they dated the clam to between 405 and 410 years-old. This breaks the official record of 220 years held by another clam of the same species.

The researchers aren't sure why clams of this species live so long but hope to study and find out. They think it's likely there are some 600 year-old clams out there in the water.

And as far as killing the "world's oldest living animal":

"Its death is an unfortunate aspect of this work, but we hope to derive lots of information from it," said Al Wanamaker, a postdoctoral scientist on the university's Arctica team. "For our work it's a bonus, but it wasn't good for this particular animal."

The Bear Whisperer?

Well, if Rebecca O'Connor can be the parrot whisperer, the LA Times thinks that Steve Searles of Mammoth Lakes, California is the bear whisperer. Searles is the local police department's volunteer wildlife specialist. Marauding black bears are a problem at Mammoth, and rather than tranquilizing and removing offenders, and potentially killing them if they repeat, Searles tries to use "tough love" to chase bears away from trouble. He uses firecrackers and flares, rubber bullets, air horns -- all nonlethal techniques he refers to as "bear spankings."

You wonder how long this guy will last, but it sounds like he has sense enough to keep his distance. According to a prominent resident:

"Steve gets along fine with the bears," said George Shirk, editor of the local Mammoth Monthly. "It's people he sometimes has a problem with."

I did like this quote of Searles scolding two treed cubs who've just ransacked a condominum kitchen:

"Bad bears!" he growled up at the 100-pound cubs, who peered back innocently. "What are you guys doing? Who do you think you are?"

Hot Chiles are Good for You

Us chile lovers all know this, but there is fresh news in chile research. The active ingredient in chiles, capsaicin, may have a future role in replacing some addictive narcotic painkillers. Think back to a time when you bit into a really hot chile: at first it was hot and painful, but then after a while your mouth and tongue went numb. It's that numbing affect on pain-sensing nerves that researchers are hoping to exploit. It's hoped that bathing surgically exposed nerves in a high enough dose will numb them for weeks.

Of course, some people might argue with you about the addictive qualities of chiles.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

In the Land of 40-Year Strolls

We fly into the vast devil of the Mid East with this first: a gorgeous verdant beach with the gorgeous Med right there and filled with tiny flawless empty islands, something you couldn’t help but call perfect if you didn’t know you were about 100 miles north of Beirut and risking being shot to shit, flying really crooked from Istanbul so as to not go over that city or any of the others, or Israel at all, because, well…. The first stunning thing is the way the coast is flawless green perfect until the mountains top out and come down their eastern side as nothing but dirt, and pour nothing but dirt on everything else we pass. It’s striking the way from the air mountains are more imposing that they are when you look up at their interminable height. On the other side it’s a vast enough desert to wander in for forty years without seeing the same thing twice, assuming you’re from the desert and can tell red empty hateful desert from pink hateful empty desert, from crimson empty desert, hateful. Inexplicably, over this mass of oblivion, big farms show their faces, nothing at all like the flyover-state farms I’ve seen getting from Albuquerque to the new York or Atlanta or wherever. These are farms by shards, clearly demarked from the air, but by what logic I cannot ascertain. The fields curls and bend and cut into one another. This is west Texas without surveyors, the Wild West when lines of longitude were as mythical as Atlantis (and my poet friend tells me, ‘They lost Atlantis when it got up and moved from the vast Pacific to this mad desert, who can blame them,’ because we’re trying, at his behest, to confuse tourists, calling the whole thing the ‘Trail of Tears,’ where Jesus wept, et c) After seeing a dozen monochromatic cities and pillars of smoke from nowhere and roads that take 90 degree turns in the middle of endless sand flats, I have to think that there’s an order here, some governing force, that is just, simply, different. Stones are piled throughout the desert at what I can only describe as random (clearly not random), like something you would look for if you were the last one out to a deep New Mexican campout and had nothing else to guide you, but these, honestly, seem to have guided 6,000 years’ worth of pilgrims without being taken down. I can see Moses nudging the topmost stones centimeters at a time, coaxing them to balance, knowing all God’s people are relying on these, and they still stand, next to the coincidental chucked off stones of some Bedouin sheepherder who just happens to have the god of coincidental balance on his side. There is some order here, in farms and pastures and even stones, that I cannot guess at. We go to Amman, the capital of Jordan, which is a lot like Istanbul except it is the most boring place in the history of the world. We drink a special mid-east drink, “Not found in Europe or Egypt,” despite the fact that the bottle itself sez it comes straight from ancient Egyptian secrets, and that it is called “Arak” which sounds suspiciously like “Raki,” the official special drink of Turkey (tastes exactly the same, PS), which itself tastes exactly like Ouzo and Grappa, and all the other official special drinks of Mediterranean countries (shh!). Men shout cordially at one another across small rooftop tables. They take off their shoe before they cross their legs. You can’t buy an apple without haggling over the price. (You do get to wash it off right there in the store, though, gratis). Everyone seems very comfortable with this. There is clearly some order here in the kisses and mad traffic and screwy backward writing, something that facilitates society, but it escapes me. All this left me seeing random arrangements I assume must be patterns I just can’t understand, desert djinn, madnesses, appreciating the cosmopolitan nonstop zazz of Istanbul, seeing it in contrast to the pick and choose accommodated by the distance/connection with the west that lets Amman have AC and good roads and a fairly minor amount of anti-Semitism (not to mention ancient decrepit old men with flawless English somehow, working at convenience stores) with none of the madness and conflict and just straight rigmarole of Istanbul, the middle-child of the world, forced to choose and choose fast, and now! The past-as-future, secularism-as-religion Istanbul, so goddamn alive it’s ugly Istanbul, the constantly thinking itself still the most important city in the world Istanbul, to the detriment of just how startling a city it is the world right now…Istanbul. In any event we had a bad night in Amman then missed the bus to Petra by ten minutes (poets and clocks, those eternal enemies) and had to take one of the group taxis that apparently compose the world east of Paris. We slept hungover in this little utility van until around 11 waiting for it to fill up, despite the fact we got to it at around 7, then hightailed it to Petra at long last. Petra is maybe most famous now because of a massive push by the Jordanian government to have it placed on the new list of the seven wonders of the world that Americans don’t care about. (Since then it has been voted, indeed, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.) Other than that, the façade of the most impressive building was the face put on the resting place of the Holy Grail by Stephen Spielberg and George Lucas and Co. in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. So gobs of tourists walk or ride a camel a mile or so down these inconceivable holy canyons to this holy grail of photo ops, then turn around. Us, we climbed some hideous mountain to the other side, and had a world of ruins absolutely and completely to ourselves. It was the anti-Disneyland, we posed on tumbled columns like Greek Gods ourselves, we read English graffiti on the walls of holy holes for the widows of fallen soldiers, we were alone in an ancient, forgotten city, shunned even by the tourists that patronized the accessible half of it, alone outside of time, and for all our talk, beyond words. We took pictures, we wrote words in the sand, we talked self-consciously about Ozimandus (sp?) and reeled from hunger and dehydration and real pure ecstasy, giving candy bars to little gypsy babies that wandered up trying to sell random rocks, the only other people on this side at all, apparently belonging to the tables of necklaces and souvenirs left unattended everywhere, paying something like $3 for a can of coke when we got back to those kids’ well-stocked, refrigerated hovels, (me at least) really, completely happy, taking pictures like mad, gone crazy with heat, thinking that Petra, Jordan, with its vastness, its single-color tonality, its big, New Mexican skies (sans stars, I would later find out, too low) is one of the most photogenic patches on this wart of God we call earth. From there we ran down to the Saudi border, mainly to risk kidnapping, and hit up what they call in Jordan the Gulf of Aquaba, though the Egyptians, Saudis, and Israelis probably all have different names for it. Went scuba diving there, unlicensed, saw a massive octopus, held a seahorse, saw a shipwreck from below and noticed that my air hose was leaking and, ps, I have no idea how to actually scuba dive, and no talent for the thing at all besides stupid fearlessness, and just watch my barometer instead of anything else because some sixth-grade scientist inside of me sez that’s wise. It was amazing. Back that night to Amman, no quick look at the Promised Land, no look at the salt pillars of the Dead Sea, just a quick disappointed look at some worthless scraps of Dead Sea Scrolls in Aquaba, a long bus ride back north, where thousands of people line the freeway having picnics according to some pattern I cannot discern. Sitting in the desert’s weekend night beside the road eating something they must have cooked at home, considering it an escape (I imagine) for reasons I can’t even really guess at. We hoof it out to some castles in the desert that make no sense at all (no pattern I can discern) before hitting our 4 am flight. We meet exactly one person in Jordan who can’t speak English. Not a wit of trouble. Watch something about a Jew boy struggling through Nazi Germany for something ,on TV, remarking about obvious things, impressed. Every single taxi driver we find gives us a colossal parody of American, saying, “AWL-right, HAY-re YA go,” and HAWV-fan,” and, for some reason, “Sayonara,” with big, long, drawn-out American ‘A’s. There's no doubt some real guiding pattern to this place. We fly back over Lebanon from madmen farms to desert to verdant beaches, without any restoration of familiarity. And it doesn't go away, this feeling that the cleanliness and orderly beauty of that London and the familiar ease of America are actually not necessarily better than the chaos of arbitrary order laying over these desert expanses. Nor does the trepidation about the intents of certain Muslim nations. You don't leave Jordan in a blind multi-culti bliss-out, no more than you leave it with a jingoistic hatred of ragheads, you just leave it confused, all too aware of the flexibility of the order that governs life. Or something like that.

Friday, October 26, 2007

Turkeys Terrorize Massachusetts

The Boston Globe tells us that the wild turkey population is up in Massachusetts and that residents of Brookline don't much like it. Assertive turkeys are harrassing people on sidewalks.

"The problem, according to some Brookline residents, is that the turkeys can be aggressive at times. Dr. Ruth Smith, an internist from New York City, was staying with a cousin in Brookline a couple of weeks ago when she was stalked by what she describes as a 3-foot-tall turkey.

"He came at me and, at first, I tried to shoo him away," Smith recalled. "I figured I'd just go 'Shoo!' and he'd go. But he was very aggressive."

Smith said she escaped by ducking into the Dunkin' Donuts on Beacon Street."

Thank goodness for Dunkin' Donuts. It's tough out there.


Thursday, October 25, 2007

Fall Maple

I was in Seattle on business part of last week. It was the first time in a while I had been anywhere that has an approximation of the tree colors of an Eastern Fall. Just wanted to share this picture I took of a beautiful maple.

Neanderthals Had Red Hair

Or at least some of them did. Another product of on-going research on the Neanderthal genome.

Another Quote

"I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library."

Jorge Luis Borges

Quote

"Travel is glamorous only in retrospect."

Paul Theroux

(HT About Last night).

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

How To Tell If You Are Mom's Favorite


More Dogs n' Birds


Paul's Zoltar, son of Kyran and Ataika, pensive...



... and in the field:



A fresh- trapped NM Gos, sadly not mine:



The late tazi "Gos" from Kurdistan-- those eyes are appropriate!



And Vladimir's new "Sanct Petersburg" tazi pup Timur-- new genes,and beautiful!

An Osprey Walks into a Bar...

My brother Mark, who lives in the Virgin Islands, was in his favorite bar when someone brought him this rescue osprey (Bodios are well known bird people). According to Mark, all will be well.

Links

Animal Rights proponents demand that those who want a dog go only to the "overpopulated" shelters. So why are shelters going out of the country to get thousands more dogs? "When animal shelters started going overseas to fill their emptying kennels, some worried the imported strays would bring foreign diseases and even rabies into the USA."

Of course it will likely be people like me or my friend Vladimir, who import only one or two selected dogs, who will be prohibited from bringing them in.

As anyone knows who pays attention, the west is drying up. “You can’t call it a drought anymore, because it’s going over to a drier climate. No one says the Sahara is in drought.” And people keep on coming to the cities... (HT Annie P- H)

The Japanese truly are, as Jonathan Hanson says, "the weirdest country in the world". I love them but-- VENDING MACHINE DISGUISES??

National Geographic has a big pro- hunting article. Prepare for the ravers to come out of the woodwork!

Michael Vick and PETA make common cause. Why am I not (too) surprised? HT Gail Goodman.

Doctors in Britain want to ban pointed kitchen knives. Anthony Bourdain says "This is yet another sign of the coming apocalypse.." But a spokesman for the Brady Campaign to Prevent Gun Violence said that people in his movement were "envious" of England for having such problems.

If you come right down to it I just don't like politics. Neither does "Roger de Hauteville". "When average people are required to pay close attention to the government, because the government is the source of all succor or pain in their lives, the country is doomed. No well-adjusted person should be-- or should be required to be-- interested in politics very much.

"Come to think of it -- none are."

Nature Writing: Robert Macfarlane

My recent reading of Robert Macfarlane's fascinating The Wild Places made me think a lot about the differences between (current) American and English "nature writing", and why I usually like the second better.

There are many reasons and not all are related. English nature and natural history writing, like the (I would argue related) genre travel writing, has a longer history. The English were thinking about their countryside while we were still subduing ours (though see Audubon's journals and writings, which might also be considered travel writing). The English had to travel outside of their country to see new perspectives, while we were wandering a continent (even recently-- think, as a recent writer has persuasively argued, of three definitive books published within a year of each other, all among the best books of the fifties: On the Road; Lolita; and Wild America.

One reason why a lot of contemporary American nature writing bores is the idea that we are something apart from nature. Bill McKibben's thesis in The End of Nature is that nothing exists we have not altered. But as Tom Palmer, author of Landscape with Reptile (about Boston's relict rattlesnakes, one of the best "post- modern" nature books existing) argued in an old Atlantic monthly essay that brought down the wrath of the public on his head, why is a Mozart symphony, a product of the human species, less natural than a spider's web or a bowerbird's bower? We are ALL products of the planet.

Those who live in societies where human impact is obvious may be more likely to see the forgotten beauty in landscapes that are less than pristine, be it through English nature writing or Japanese ink drawings or Chinese poetry. Nature without humans makes no art, though it may inspire it. They also acknowledge the shared history of human and nature. Too much third- rate nature writing fills the void of the wilderness with the "I" rather than the eye, the ear, the story-- what else is there to react? I am not saying one cannot have good nature writing about the wildest places-- just that it is still rare, while good writing from more settled surroundings can draw the mind to human- nature interactions and narratives: stories. Is it any wonder that so much good nature writing and art, even in the US, comes from those who live in relatively crowded environs-- Palmer, Anne Matthews, the paintings of Walton Ford? Even some writers about wilder scenes actually hale from locales like New England; in The Spell of the Tiger Sy Montgomery, who went as a traveler to the Sundarbans to experience a place where danger, something considered exotic at home, is an everyday part of life, gives us a line about big predators that exceeds many whole books on the subject: ".... you enter a world where the ground sucks you down whole, where the night swallows the stars, and where you know, for the first time, that your body is made of meat"-- !!

(And please, if you want to argue, don't quote Ed Abbey at me. At his best he is a fine writer-- but, as even he insisted, he is not a nature writer. Besides, he liked Hoboken too.)

Right now, I'd like to consider a writer who can wring perceptions as fine as that-- who can both move you and thrill you and make you contemplate long views-- in an old, human - bounded landscape; one who finds in England, to quote a writer he also looks at "a land to me as profuse and glowing as Africa."

In The Wild Places, Macfarlane circles Britain on an idiosyncratic itinerary (endpaper map with iconic objects by our Pluvialis), starting with places anyone might find wild, in the north, on islands and stony beaches, and eventually returning to the leafy beech woodlands of near- home where the wild is less visible or at least obvious. He talks with people who know these places, examines their literary history and connections (sometimes as far afield as the deserts of North Africa), and tries to know them on an intimate and sensuous level, going out in storm and good weather, hiking in the cold, sleeping on sand and rock, immersing himself in streams and bogs. He describes and brings back tokens:

"A little rhomboid stone, whose gray and white strata recalled the grain of the driftwood and the sand terrace. A hank of dried seaweed. A wing feather from a buzzard, tawny and cream, barred with five dark diagonals.When I teased two of its veins apart, they unzipped with a soft tearing noise. I arranged the objects into lines and patterns, changed their order."

"Lines and patterns" occur and recur:

"That night on the sea wall, I thought about migration: those strong seasonal compulsions that draw creatures between regions,from one hemisphere to another. More than two million migrating birds used the soft shores of Britain and Ireland as resting points each autumn and winter.... The migrating birds did not shun humans; they were happy to live around them. What they did access when choosing where to land, though, was wildness; how far the water and the land would allow them to follow their own instincts and fulfil their own needs. Where they could not do this, they did not land."

This is a vision we need-- the notion of "wild" as a possibility on a planet where (to be fair to McKibben) we have touched everything. Grazing has altered my remote hills, and there are no grizzlies there today; the remotest wild part of roadless Mongolia has borne the tread of humans and even Neanderthals. But all are worth, and need, celebration as well as, more than, lament. if we want to preserve what is good. We cannot just wall everything off and look at it from behind glass. Says Macfarlane: "My early version of a wild place as somewhere remote, historyless, unmarked, now seemed improperly partial....I had learned to see another kind of wildness, to which I had once been blind: the wildness of natural life, the sheer force of ongoing organic existence, vigorous and chaotic. This wilderness was not about asperity, but about luxuriance, vitality, fun."

Or, earlier, a simple statement: "The human and the wild cannot be partitioned".

I'll leave you with his ending thoughts, near home; I cannot do better:

"Wilderness was here, too, a short mile south of the town in which I lived. It was set about by roads and buildings, much of it was menaced, and some of it was dying. But at that moment it seemed to ring with a wild light."

Monday, October 22, 2007

Major Find at the Whydah Wreck

I've posted several times about underwater archaeology at the wreck of the Whydah, an 18th century pirate ship sunk off the Massachusetts coast. A couple of months back it was announced that a 4,000 pound metal concretion had been discovered in the wreck. Steve's sister Karen Bodio-Graham has passed along this article from a local paper that tells of its recovery. The main part of the mass of metal has been identified as the ship's "caboose" or iron cook stove. Apparently all sorts of other metal and organic items have been fused together with the stove in this big concretion. I'm sure the conservators will be years figuring out what all is in there

California Fires

About this time last year I posted on the tough fire season Southern California was having. Two years ago was one of the wettest in the area for the last 150 years and this past year was about the driest, making for lots of dry fuel. Today's NY Times reports that this situation has made this year's fires even worse than 2006. I don't have a lot to add other than I was struck by this accompanying satellite photo taken yesterday showing smoke blowing off of the fires out to sea. This clearly shows the path of the Santa Ana winds blowing out from the desert.

First of the Season

Our first snow storm of the season hit early Sunday morning and left us with 6-7 inches of wet snow.

This view of the deck gives you a little better idea of how much accumulation we had.



It really was very wet snow. The peach trees on the east side of the house still have their leaves and were bent nearly double by the weight of the snow. I spent quite a while knocking it off the limbs.


Sadie has finally decided that playing in the snow really is a lot of fun. Just to show how volatile the weather is here in Colorado, the high temperature on Saturday just before the storm was 80 degrees. And the forecast high for day after tomorrow is 74.

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

A Few from Almaty


I couldn't make it to the Primitive Breeds Conference in Almaty Kazakhstan this year, which is too bad because many of my friends did.

Here are two friends, saluki man and Arabist Sir Terence Clark and Vladimir Beregovoy, who is now based in Virginia. He is a biologist, an expert on primitive breeds, and a Laika breeder. (We are also working on a Siberian hunter's book first published in 1865-- actually mostly done but hard to find a publisher). Between them is someone I would like to meet: Asylhan Artykbaev: eagle hunter, tazi breeder, and naturalist.



He is also a descendant of the old pre- Soviet aristocracy. Here he is in more resplendent plumage, with an eagle.

The Pups


Some of our pups at a few months more than a year.

John Burchard's Tigger in the field in California.



Sherri Beregovoy's Clio has a false pregnancy and is hoarding toys which she treats as pups. Sure looks like her mother (below).




Clio's sister Larissa, who we kept, at the ranch.



Monica's Nemrah, another NM dog.



Paul, Nate: send us recent photos of Z and and Maty and we'll put them in.

Absent?

In the past two weeks I have finished 4000 words for a forthcoming book on the art of Tom Quinn, had the Peculiars as guests for a week, and screwed up my back by hiking up a canyon with a yielding floor of washed- out gravel. Now four books have arrived in the mail to review. So I am going to give a few links for now, and some pix, then come back with real essay posts in a bit (I hope).

Pluvi's Gos has caught her first rabbit. She is having the blues at the end of a tough year-- go over and wish her well.

Prairie Mary has been to the Montana Festival of the Book, and has some wise and tough things about the publishing world.

Check out Outside Magazine Online for material on Patrick Symmes' search for the legendary city of Shambhala. No woo- woo stuff here; he points to a real archaeological state in Xinjiang (or as natives prefer, "East Turkestan")

Camera Trap Codger has some tiger tales to tell. He also knew another ratman. (HT Patrick.

Big gun!

(Actually and strangely, such waterfowling cannons are still legal, if rare, in England.)

Raptors-- the non- avian kind-- had feathers! Wonder what Feduccia thinks of this?(In- joke I may explain later).

A New Mexico Ceratopsian.

At Bioephemera, a fascinating post on how we present our personal identities. Any blogger or maybe any writer of non- fiction should read this. (also reminds me I need to add about ten blogs to the blogroll!)

At the Moscow Times: a unique sandpiper seems to be disappearing. The Han Empire's environmental impact continues.

A Daring Book for Girls! Not sure it doesn't sound tougher than the boy's version.

Both Chas and Annie D sent me links to stories on the ban on eating ortolans. I'm not sure that a bird common throughout Eurasia could be all that rare in France (and you should note that several songbirds are legally hunted and eaten there). More pc, like the foie gras ban? Does anyone know?

Laura Niven sent me this story about a dachshund who found a very big old bone. She looks remarkably like our Lily.

Darren now has three posts up about "mainstreaming" cryptozoology. Start here and go up. Lots of other fun stuff at Tet Zoo, and good comments. Darren, I still want my monster pigeons.

Maybe there always WILL be an England. Here is a debate in the House of Lords about what to do about gray squirrels. Of course they're edible!

Pics soon.

Saturday, October 13, 2007

The void, two views

Helen recently drew readers' attention to a startling (maybe terrifying) essay on what it means to live in Los Angeles by Geoff Manaugh, writing at BLDGBLOG.

Helen quotes the opening passage at plenty length to give the gist. But read the whole thing here. It's very good.

What do I know about Los Angeles? Not any more than it shows us of itself, which is a lot, but how accurate that is I can't say. Now I know also whatever truth there is to Manaugh's observations.

Says Manaugh with a shrug, Los Angeles is "the void."
Los Angeles is where you confront the objective fact that you mean nothing; the desert, the ocean, the tectonic plates, the clear skies, the sun itself, the Hollywood Walk of Fame – even the parking lots: everything there somehow precedes you, even new construction sites, and it's bigger than you and more abstract than you and indifferent to you. You don't matter. You're free.

Free to be anything you want to be, even nothing at all. "Literally no one cares," repeats Manaugh, "You're alone in the world. L.A. is explicit about that. "

Manaugh's dispassionate delivery is chilling, exquisitely scene-setting. The accompanying photos to his essay are suitably abstract, beautiful and bleak.

To the condition of being "free," as related to life in L.A., he gives its fullest expression and reveals it to be a state of total isolation:
In Los Angeles you can be standing next to another human being but you may as well be standing next to a geological formation. Whatever that thing is, it doesn't care about you. And you don't care about it. Get over it. You're alone in the world. Do something interesting.

Manaugh admits upfront that he loves this about L.A., and there's a little bit of Carl Sandburg in his admiration for the city.

L.A. is the apocalypse: it's you and a bunch of parking lots. No one's going to save you; no one's looking out for you. It's the only city I know where that's the explicit premise of living there – that's the deal you make when you move to L.A.

The city, ironically, is emotionally authentic.


This is one vision of freedom, adrift and alone in a crowd, responsible only for "doing something interesting," if you care to. There are other views: Just about anything Wendell Berry writes will offer you a vision of freedom virtually the opposite of Manaugh's L.A.

Reading him today, I found a passage not much different than the usual Berry polemic, but after Manaugh the contrast is stark. I offer it as a look at an older form of freedom, and as a kind of antidote.
These ways of marriage, kinship, friendship, and neighborhood surround us with forbiddings; they are forms of bondage, and involved in our humanity is always the wish to escape. . . . But involved in our humanity also is the warning that we can escape only into loneliness and meaninglessness. Our choice may be between a small, humanized meaning and a vast meaninglessness, or between the freedom of our virtues and the freedom of our vices. It is only in these bonds that our freedom has a use and a worth; it is only to the people who know us, love us, and depend on us that we are indispensable as the persons we uniquely are. In our industrial society, in which people insist so fervently on their value and their freedom "as individuals," individuals are seen more and more as "units" by their governments, employers and suppliers. They live, that is, under the rule of the interchangeability of parts: what one person can do, another person can do just as well or a newer person can do better. Separate from the relationships, there is nobody to be known; people become, as they say and feel, nobodies.

--from Berry's essay, Men and Women in Search of Common Ground, 1985

Friday, October 12, 2007

Dzien dobry from Polski...or something

As a so-called 'foreign' correspondent, yours' truly feels a very mild need to be odd, to be, as it were, foreign.
At first, this seems a very easy thing to be in Eastern Europe, specifically, in rural Poland. Gone, for sure, is America, and gone, even, is the cosmopolitanism of Istanbul, which has the grace at least to be a ridiculously large city, with party-hardy Americans aplenty, et c.
Gone now is the sense of: when I was young was America and now is Different.
Turns out Different comes in a lot of different forms. Who'd a thunk?
I had tons of things to say about the beauty of the graffiti here (which is beautiful) especially compared to the buildings (which are hideously garish), but from the time I arrived at my petulant-child thesis: Graffiti must at least strive at beauty, since its goal is to overwhelm the aesthetics of whoever wants to paint it over, to make them acknowledge its beauty and leave it alone because they can't bear to compromise it, whereas building-painters in post-Communist Eastern Europe feel compelled to throw up bright colors as an assertion of the fact that they have no one at all to answer to, no one to paint over them, as it were--An idea that ran, eventually, against the time that I'd spent walking around actually thinking about this nice sounding idea, testing it against reality a bit and finding it severely wanting.
At the same time I was coming to almost hate the things I'd written about a magnificent trip to Jordan.
The flaw's maybe easy to diagnose, a childish desire for resolution or at least a surmising statement, 'spose.
But when differences keep coming up and being different from one another, when after a month those hideous apartment blocks start seeming bold and okay, aesthetically, and treks cross-city for awesome graffiti walk you past blocks of ugly graffiti, and you realize that what you thought after one touristic week in the place to be a bold insight is revealed to be a superficial conclusion-jump, you (and by you I mean I) come to the conclusion that the sport of all this vagrant wandering is being constantly wrong. Not just in prejudices or presuppositions, but in analysis and understanding, too. Being foreign, it turns out, is a lot like being 15 and aware of it. Always thinking you're right. Always being proved wrong.
But that sounds a lot like a grand conclusion, don't it....

Tuesday, October 09, 2007

Indian Peaks

On Sunday of last week, Connie and I went with our friends Jeremy and Monica and their two children (plus one friend) up to Boulder County for a picnic and hike in an area just east of the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area. This is a shot of the Indian Peaks from near where we parked. They had a dusting of snow from a storm a few days earlier.


Our mountain trees are mostly evergreens so we don't get the dramatic color changes seen in Eastern forests. The aspens here do change to a very bright yellow that highlights the green of the rest of the forest and thousands of people drive up from the city in September to see them.

The valley floor where we parked was at about 9,000 ft. and several granite domes like this one thrust up from it. We clambered to the tops of two of them for better views.


It was very breezy at the tops and here you see Connie, Monica, the kids, and Sadie on a ledge to get out of the wind.


Here we are hiking through an aspen grove on our way between the domes. It's interesting how neighboring groves can simultaneously be green, have turned yellow, or have already dropped their leaves. From what I understand, the roots of all the aspens in one grove are all connected so in essence each grove is one big plant.

The top of the second dome had this big notch in it that served as a big wind tunnel. As you can see it had a big pothole full of water that the dogs splashed into to get a drink. Somehow we kept the kids from falling in.

More Kapuscinski

Following Steve's lead, here's another quote from Ryszard Kapuscinski's Travels with Herodotus:

"A journey, after all, neither begins in the instant we set out, nor ends when we have reached our doorstep once again. It starts much earlier and is really never over, because the film of memory continues running on inside of us long after we have come to a physical standstill. Indeed, there exists something like a contagion of travel, and the disease is essentially incurable."

Wednesday, October 03, 2007

Neanderthal Range Extended

Nicholas Wade, working the paleoanthropology beat for the New York Times, reports again on Neanderthal DNA research. Svante Paabo at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Leipzig, Germany (where Steve's friend Laura Niven works) has recovered Neanderthal mitochondrial DNA from bones excavated from two sites in Central Asia:

"One is Teshik Tash, in Uzbekistan, some 750 miles east of the Caspian Sea and, until now, the easternmost known limit of Neanderthal territory. The other bones are from the Okladnikov cave in the Altai mountains, some 1,250 miles farther east.

This huge extension of the Neanderthal’s known range puts them well into southern Siberia.

Because the mitochondrial DNA sequence of the new finds differs only slightly from that of the European Neanderthals, Dr. Paabo believes that they may have moved into Siberia relatively late in the Neanderthal period, perhaps as recently as 127,000 years ago, when a warm period made Siberia more accessible."

As the article points out, this is a big step on two fronts of research. One is of course that the previously known range of Neanderthal populations has been expanded. But the second is that DNA analysis allows for the species identification of small fragments of bone. Previously Neanderthals (and other earlier hominids) could only be identified by skeletal morphology, which meant that a much larger percentage of the skeleton had to be recovered to positively identify the species. The article doesn't say it, but this new methodology opens the door for reanalysis of museum skeletal collections excavated over the last hundred years or so, potentially vastly increasing the known database on Neanderthal populations.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

More Southern Illinois Salukis

Steve posted last month about his delight at discovering that the mascot of the Southern Illinois University athletic teams is the Saluki. We've since found more SIU Saluki stuff like this picture of a guy in a saluki suit who prowls the sidelines at their football games. Apparently local saluki owners take turns bringing their dogs to the games as well.

We also found this image of the SIU football helmets with their Saluki logo. (Image courtesy of The Helmet Project).

Finally, I had completely forgotten that our friend Jeremy had gotten his degree from SIU and is a fervent Saluki supporter. Here's a picture of his five year-old son Ian, proudly wearing his Saluki logo hat.

The Ranch

We often speak of "The Ranch"-- Lee Henderson's acreage of miles of high desert grassland, canyon, and foothill, located on La Jencia Plain under the Magdalenas and not touching pavement on any side. It is an idael place to run dogs and fly falcons. I thought you might like to see a few pix.

Here is his house.



Me, walking with the pack.



Larissa, the brat:



And Lee himself, showing a print Vadim Gorbatov signed to him, of quail through the windshield of our car, on the ranch.